Powering Your Tour

Now that you’ve decided to go on this crazy thing called a tour and have purchased all the cool gadgets to make your tour awesome, you’re worried that you will be stranded with a low cell phone battery in the middle of nowhere. I’ll admit, I was afraid of this same thing. Ok, maybe not afraid so much as concerned; after all, one of the best things about touring is the ability to unplug and get away from the noise and distraction of the digital world. However there are some amazingly cool apps and doo-dads that require power and can make your tour better and easier. For those of us unable to completely unplug, here are some ideas to help you keep your electronics powered while you’re on tour:

Solar Power.

One thing we found worked for us on the Southern Tier (where it was sunshine and blue skies most of the trip) was a Bushnell Solar Wrap which we kept exposed during our days’ rides, and charged up an internal battery which could then be used to charge any USB device. Additionally the internal battery could be charged from a USB wall charger allowing us to top it off at night or after cloudy days.

The downsides are that it takes ten hours of direct sun to charge fully and doesn’t work in inclement weather. Both of those can be challenges when you are riding a bicycle. The solar charging equipment seems to be a tough product to engineer well, with many solar charging have a large number of negative reviews. This probably shouldn’t be your only method of charging at this time.

Battery backup.

We use a Jackery Bar which is a small battery with a USB port that our devices could be plugged into. Our initial intention was to use this as a backup. We would charge the bar up using any outlet we came across, and use it to give our phones and cameras a boost. This ended up being our favorite option: it charged quickly and lets you use your device where ever you want.

Also in risky situations you can leave the battery bar charging unattended instead of your expensive devices. Our favorite part of this solution is that it freed us from having to sit near an outlet while charging the phone, simply plug the phone into the Jackery Bar and you can now use your phone anywhere. No more hanging out in those lovely state park bathrooms while trying to get a charge.

On the grid.

Any time you’re stopped in a place with a wall outlet, take advantage of it if possible. Plug in your devices when you can. Some common charging spot include hotels, the bathrooms at the campground, or even the local library. Make sure that you ask the owners/operators before charging, however most people are very understanding and willing to help you out.

Conservation.

One of the easiest ways to reduce your charging requirements is to conserve battery power. Turnoff your devices when you don’t need them, put your phone in airplane mode when you’re not using it. I’ve found airplane mode works better than powering it completely down and then back up, which seems to take more juice. Also this allows you to have the phone available and ready to use versus waiting for it to startup. Most smartphones have a widget which can turn airplane mode on and off with one click.

Remember, bicycle touring is all about solving those little problems as they come up. And, don’t forget, it’s not the end of the world if you can’t check your Facebook that night. But with a little pre-planning, you can be as plugged in (or as unplugged) as you want to be on your bicycle tour.

 

 

 

Using Cell Phones While Bicycle Touring: How to get the most out of your battery

Bicycle touring is a great time to unplug from technology, to immerse yourself in the natural world. However, those tiny, handheld computers we call smartphones are so darn handy! Camera, GPS, journaling device, googler, calculator, you name it. They seem to be too useful to leave behind. Although I remove myself from Facebook as much as possible while I’m touring, I bring along my phone for all those other useful purposes.

Initially when I started touring I would get so frustrated with my cell phone. Even using it only to make journal entries in camp, I would only get two or three days of journaling on a single charge. This was a newish phone, and I wasn’t using it all day, every day. In fact, I was turning it off when I wasn’t using it. Why was the battery not lasting longer? My husband, on the other hand, seemed to have unlimited battery on his phone. We had the same phone. What was the deal?

Well, turns out I was doing it wrong. Once I changed two simple things, my battery lasted longer and my frustration level lowered.

Airplane mode: I thought that turning the phone off when I wasn’t using it would make the battery last longer. Boy was I wrong. Powering down and powering up takes a decent amount of battery power. Who knew? Well, once I started putting my phone into airplane mode, it lasted for longer. Sometimes a whole week.

If you’ve never put your phone into airplane mode, it is simple. Most cell phones have this mode and you can usually access it in the same menu as the power down menu. It should be as simple as selecting “airplane mode”. This keeps the phone on and lets you use the phone, but turns off the part of the phone that searches for a cellular signals. Without doing this your phone will constantly search for a signal unless you tell it not to. Silly phone! Be aware this will prevent you from accessing the internet or making phone calls, but it is pretty quick to turn airplane mode off if you need more from your phone.

Display brightness: Another battery eater is the display. Most phones have a way to turn down the brightness of your display. Once I turned this down to the lowest setting, even though it was now difficult to see what was on the screen, it saved precious battery power.

Essentially, by changing these two settings, you turn your high powered phone into a low power phone. But the camera and non-internet apps will still work if you need them. If you need to make a phone call or check where you are on the map, simply turn airplane off for a couple minutes then turn it back on. So, save your battery. And perhaps your sanity.

Do you have tips for saving your cell phone battery? Tell us in the comments below!

Lightweight Packing List for Bicycle Touring Couples

Before we left on our 2,500 miles ride along the Southern Tier I knew that I wanted to pack as light as possible. Thanks to the recent ultralight craze in backpacking there is a ton of gear available now for the tourist looking to lower the weight on their bicycle. We managed to get to 40lbs total for the two of us.

I consider it a huge victory that for two people going on a self supported tour we were able to get our weight down so far, and the 40lbs includes the weight of the panniers! When divided up my wife carried roughly 17 pounds of gear and I carried the remaining 23 pounds. We also were able to tour with only rear panniers, which allowed for removing my front rack saving another 3 pounds.

If you are looking to see the bare minimum that you need to get you and a partner along the Southern Tier with temperatures ranging from 15-102F in the late fall months this is the list. The only item that I know we could save more weight on is Pam’s sleeping bag, if we trade her bag for a bag similar to mine we will be at about 38 pounds of gear. Not sure how much more ultra-light you can go before losing your self sufficiency.

I hoped this helped you get some ideas for going lightweight on your next tour. Do you see anywhere we can improve, cut a few more grams from? Feel free to comment below!

How to Dress for a Bicycle Tour

What should you wear on your tour? I know that when I started thinking about touring, this was a big concern. I didn’t know how much or what kind of clothing to pack. After experimenting a little bit, here’s what I’ve found that works for me.

Shorts. If you’re new to bicycling, you’ve most likely noticed that cyclists generally wear close-fitting, spandex, padded shorts. Why is this? Well, I’ve got one word for you: chafing. When I started riding, I was too embarrassed to wear cycling shorts, and I wound up with painful, raw patches of skin. It was terrible! So, I bit the bullet and bought a pair of women’s specific bicycling shorts and let me tell you! No more rubbing. And the padded butt, well, let’s just say that it made a huge difference. If you’re planning on riding for many hours a day, many days in a row (aka, a bicycle tour) you’ll need to be comfortable and you need to take care of your skin. Bicycling shorts (and pants) are essential for long distance comfort and after several days on the road you don’t care what anyone thinks about how you look. (Also think about getting a chamois cream or stick to help minimize friction. We recommend Bodyglide Original Anti-Chafe Balm.)

Shirts. If you go into a shop that sells bicycling clothing, you’ll see many different types of jerseys. The two most popular material choices are polyester/lycra blends and wool. In my experience, wool jerseys are the way to go. I’ll tell you why: smell. Polyester (like most man-made fibers) tends absorb and retain your body odor after just a short time. Even after washing it has a funky smell*. On the other hand, you can wear a wool jersey for a few days before it starts to hold onto body odor. It dries quickly, is super durable, and feels great on. I like to take two short-sleeved jerseys and one long-sleeved.

Armwarmers and Legwarmers. One of the amazing things about being on a bicycle all day is the immense range of temperatures you cycle into. It can be literally freezing in the morning when you wake up and sweltering by noon. I prefer shorts to leggings and wear leg warmers in the morning, and remove the leg warmers as it gets warmer. Same with arm warmers. Another advantage of layering up is the fact that your body will warm up as you exert yourself. If you start out with a big climb first thing in the morning, chances are you’ll be wanting to shed a few layers before you reach the top.

Rain gear. Unless you are cycling through Death Valley, you will probably get rained on at some point during your tour. This is a cause of great concern to new cyclists, but very quickly you realize that it is not a big deal. While good waterproof gear will help keep you dry on the outside, even the most expensive gear won’t keep you from sweating on the inside. Realistically the main purpose of rain gear is to keep you from getting too cold and to block the wind. If you are riding through warm rain, it oftentimes is easiest to just ride in it and enjoy it; you will dry off shortly after it passes. Windproof/waterproof gloves are a must if you are riding in cooler temps. Also, a good rain jacket will be one of your most valuable tools. It should have many zippers for venting and if it is truly made for cycling will have a long tail to keep your back dry as you lean over pedaling. Most importantly it will block the wind which does wonders for making cycling more bearable.

Camp” clothes. After a long day on the bike, there’s nothing better than showering and changing into regular clothing. We typically bring one extra set of clothing with us on tour. This includes a pair of long pants and a long sleeve merino wool shirt. I also bring at least 2 pairs (one to wash, one to wear) of travel underwear (like Exofficio), and one normal bra (I bring two sports bras for riding). For cool evenings we like to bring lightweight down vests that double as a pillow cover for Matt, and use our rain jackets as windbreakers around camp. Other must haves include a beanie and a lightweight pair of shoes, in case we want to go for a walk in the evening or explore town on a rest day.

Clothing on a bicycle tour is about balancing comfort and weight. Using clothing that has multiple uses will cut down on the weight of the clothing that you have to carry.  Careful planning will see you out there as comfortable as possible, ready for any weather situation.

One last hint: Got some funky smelling clothing? Try Nathan Penguin Sport wash. A small capful and your clothes come out clean and smelling fresher than other detergents.

Wondering what a packing list for a bicycle tour might look like? Check out this post with a rundown from our latest tour.

Disclaimer:

All opinions about any products mentioned in this article are my own. I have not been compensated in any way by anyone. I will, however, receive a small commission if you choose to purchase the item from Amazon after clicking the link I provide. Use your own discretion.

 

Unpacking and putting together a boxed touring bike

For our first tour we flew from Los Angeles to Seattle and had our bicycles boxed up. We had never really thought about how to put the bicycles back together once we got there. I suppose we just assumed it would be super easy. Thankfully our host had a bicycle stand and some tools to help us get them back together, but it was close to being an unpleasant experience. In response to that here is our guide to taking a bicycle from boxed to ready to ride.

Review this before you leave for your tour and reference if needed during your tour:

  1. Get your boxed bike and an open area to begin putting it together.
  2. After removing your bicycle assess how dis-assembled it is. If you had a shop pack it up some equipment may still be attached compared to our walk through, or it may be further dis-assembled.
    Bicycle after removal from box, still contains packing material.
  3. Remove any excess packing material
    Hand with scissors cutting zip tie holding packing material on the bicycle.
  4. Attaching the rear derailleur
    1. Shifting to the highest gear on the rear shifter should give you extra slack in the cable.
    2. The chain does not need to be on the f ront cogs, it may be easier with it off allowing free movement of the derailleur.
    3. There will be one large screw on the rear derailleur which screws into the frame. Additionally there will be a smaller screw which is perpendicular to the large screw (A in the picture). Make sure this screw ends up resting on the notch of the derailleur hanger (B in the picture). If you aren’t paying attention you may tighten the big screw and bend the smaller screw, so make sure you keep an eye on this while tightening the rear derailleur!
      Hand holding rear derailleur near bicycle frame before attaching it.
    4. Once the rear derailleur is attached you can position the chain properly on the front and back cogs.
      Rear triangle of the bicycle with rear derailleur attached and chain on.
  5. Positioning the stem
    1. Prior to packing your bike you should use a metallic sharpie to mark the angle / position of your stem/handlebars
    2. Rotate your fork so that it is facing the proper direction.
    3. We find it best to have the fork or front wheel on the ground while working with the stem/fork, if you loosen the wrong part the entire fork may fall out if the bike is on a rack or has the fork unsupported.
    4. If needed loosen the stem and position it so it is pointing in the proper direction, straight away from the bike. Tighten if needed so the stem is firmly attached to fork.
    5. Loosen the handlebar mount portion of the stem.
      Hands unscrewing the front part of the stem prior to attaching the handlebars.
    6. Insert the handlebars and align the marks you made before you left to get the handlebars centered and at the proper angle.
      Rear triangle of the bicycle with rear derailleur attached and chain on.
    7. Tighten all screws firmly.
  6. Attaching the front wheel
    1. If packed with a plastic spacer, simply remove the spacer. This may require applying gentle pressure to pull the fork a little apart.
      Front fork with plastic spacer to prevent bending during transit.
    2. Attach the front wheel as you normally would. You should be familiar with this because you will be needing to change flat tires while on the road.
      Installing the front wheel on to the fork.
  7. Attaching the front caliper brakes
    1. Locate the front brakes and the mounting hole in the front fork.
      Positioning the front brake calipers before attaching to the fork.
    2. Slide the bolt through the mounting hole and thread the tightening piece from the other side. Use an Allen wrench to tighten, snug but not over tight.
      Tightening the front brake calipers to the fork.
  8. Finishing Assembly
    1. Check all cables to ensure they are in the proper mounting holes. As needed re-guide or re-position cables to their appropriate positions.
    2. For the rear derailleur
      1. Ensure the cable routed properly along or through the frame from the handle bars to the derailleur.
      2. Thread the cable through the derailleur, but don’t tighten it just yet.
        Hand threading cable through rear derailleur on a bicycle
    3. Attach your racks to the appropriate mounting points and ensure all screws are tight, including screws that remained installed during transit. You are about to embark on a tour and you don’t want your bike falling apart because you failed to check a screw tight.
      Girl hold bicycle with rear rack attached to back.
    4. Using a pedal wrench attach the pedals. One pedal is threaded “normal” (tighten by turning clockwise) the other pedal is threaded “backwards” (turn counterclockwise to tighten).
      Pedal wrench attaching pedal to crank.

     

  9. Adjust the rear derailleur
    1. While this is a necessary part of putting your bike together we have included a separate guide. Look for a future post explaining how to do this!
  10.  Stand back and admire your completed bike. Now get out there and ride!
    2014-03-07 2038 PMCT-6

If you have any questions feel free to leave them in the comments, or if you noticed that I missed something tell me. I hope this helps people get a feel for taking a bicycle from boxed to ready to ride.

How to make your Carbon Fiber bicycle ready for touring

Bicycle manufacturers are coming out with “light” touring bicycles. The Jamis Xenith Endura Sport Femme I purchased came with 25mm tires, three chain rings on front, and rack mounts on the rear. It was almost, but not quite, ready to tour right out of the box. Here are a few adjustments that I made to my bike to make it tour worthy. It’s not an all-inclusive list; you may have to do more or less before your carbon fiber is ready to tour.

Gearing. A good touring bike will have 3 chainrings on the front. Especially if you’re planning on hauling gear, you will appreciate the ability to drop down into lower gears as you cross continental divides and summit several thousand foot mountain passes. There are very few places in the world that are perfectly flat; you WILL have to climb hills on your tour. That small chainring on the front will make a huge difference. If the bike you’re considering doesn’t have a triple front chainring, see if you can order it with one from the manufacturer, or if the bike shop can order just the frame and install proper gearing. For my bike I have a 30 tooth ring on the front and a 34 tooth ring on the rear.

Mounts. How are you going to carry your gear? Some carbon fibers are coming with eyelets for mounting racks and fenders. Check to see if yours has them. If there are no mounts, look into attaching clip on racks or pulling a trailer. But, be aware that attaching anything to the carbon fiber posts which involves tightening a clamp could damage the carbon fiber if tightened too hard. The 2012 Jamis Endura Sport Femme came with mounting eyelets on the rear, newer Jamis Endura models now come with a removable rack mounting system. In addition I considered getting a front rack that clipped on (similar to the Thule Tour Rack)  but ultimately decided against it. I wanted to keep my weight as low as possible, and I was able to fit everything I needed into the rear panniers I carried.

Fenders. Most Carbon Fiber road bikes don’t come with fenders, as this adds weight to the bicycle. I decided against fenders on my first tour, and ended up regretting it. While on wet roads the water splashed up on me and the frame, and dirt roads were much the same by splattering mud everywhere including my drivetrain. For my next tour, I plan on installing fenders. This will help keep my gear cleaner, as well as my clothing, when riding on wet, dirty roads.

Tires. Most Carbon Fiber bikes will come with skinny tires, more suited for road cycling. See what the widest tire it is rated for and consider putting it on. Generally 28-35mm tires are used for pavement touring to allow for variable conditions and give a more comfortable ride than narrower higher pressure tires.

Brakes. My Carbon Fiber came with standard rim brakes. Before I left, I upgraded the brakes to a higher quality. This eased my mind about being able to stop with the added weight I was planning to put on the bike. I had no problems throughout my tour however I did miss the disc brakes from my previous touring bike.

I was very satisfied with my Carbon Fiber bike on tour. The decrease in weight from my Raleigh Sojourn steel-framed touring bike meant that I had much more energy at the end of the day. I felt like I could ride many more miles each day, which made the ride more enjoyable. It only took a few minor adjustments to turn it into the ideal cycle for my tour. I look forward to many more carbon fiber bicycle tours!


Pros and Cons of Carbon Fiber Touring

For long distance touring you might think that heavy, steel framed bikes are the only way to go. Not so! I recently completed a 2500 mile bicycle tour on a carbon fiber “light touring” bicycle. I want to share why I chose a carbon fiber bike and my experience riding 2500 miles of the Southern Tier. Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons:

Pros.

  • Speed. I could go so much faster!
  • Exertion. I was not as tired at the end of the day.
  • Weight. I was forced to choose lighter gear

Cons.

  • Limited on how much I could carry.
  • Worried about durability
  • Repairabliliy

Weight Limit. Let’s address the cons first. My Jamis Xenith Endura Sport Femme was rated to carry ~40 pounds of gear. Most of the gear I had from previous tours was heavy so I was concerned about putting too much weight on the bike. To address this concern, I purchased new, lighter, more compact gear.

Durability. Additionally I was worried about the durability of carbon fiber. I rode 2500 miles over various road surfaces. This including about 1,000 miles of rough Texas chipseal! If any surface was going to vibrate my bike to pieces it would have been the rough Texas roads, which are some of the roughest surfaces in the United States! I even did a little bit of off-roading, riding on dirt, mud, and gravel.

Repairablility. I was pretty nervous that something would happen to my bicycle along the way. If any damage were to happen to the frame, it would involve a new bike instead of a simple weld like with steel-framed bikes. However, I had no issues in over 2500 miles of loaded touring and the bike is still going strong.

Speed. Now for the pros. My bike weighed in around 17 pounds and my gear weighed 25, my total weight came in just over the unloaded weight of my steel-framed Raleigh Sojourn. By reducing my overall weight, I was able to travel much faster and my average speed went through the roof!

Enjoyable. At the end of the day I wasn’t nearly as tired because I wasn’t pushing as much weight. While I had less space to pack gear, this is also a benefit, because you can’t over pack if you don’t have room. If you sum all of this up I found that with my carbon fiber touring bike, self-supported touring was much more enjoyable. My days felt lighter and easier allowing me to enjoy the views and travel much more.

Some bike manufacturers are experimenting with creating carbon bicycles which are definitely suitable for touring: the rims can take wider tires, the gearing is better suited for climbing hills, the rack mounts are already there. When you’re planning your next tour, don’t discount the carbon. You could find your next favorite touring bike, just watch out for the price tag!


How I fell in love with my touring bike and what to look for in yours

Halfway through my last tour, I realized something: I love my touring bike. I thought this was something I would never achieve. In fact, I had resigned myself to the fact that I would enjoy touring, but not necessarily my bicycle. But, it happened. I found a bicycle that I enjoy riding for days on end. I don’t get tired of riding this bicycle!

How can you make sure that you will love your touring bicycle? Here’s a few things that I considered when purchasing my latest bike.

Fit: My first touring bicycle was not designed for me. A quick look at me and the bike shop ordered what they thought was the right size. It was ok for short rides but 500 miles down the road I was experiencing real pain, on and off the bike. I was able to make some adjustments to it, which helped, but it never did fit me well. A professional can measure you to give you a starting point for a bicycle; this will typically give you a better starting point than someone glancing at you.

One big problem I faced was not riding the bike for several long days in a row to know if it fit well for touring. I should have practiced with a short multiple-day tour to ensure I had proper fit. Additionally riding a loaded bike is different than unloaded, and puts different stress on your body. You should practice with weight, and make the necessary adjustments before you even begin your tour. Even millimeters of adjustments can make big differences in your comfort. Try to get it right before you leave and mark the proper heights/angles on the bike.

Function: I was lucky enough to find a carbon fiber, lightweight, touring bicycle. This was everything that I wanted in a bicycle, both for touring and for riding around. Un-weighted, I can keep up with much faster riders. Weighted, I can go for long distances. Being both lightweight and able to carry gear was important to me. If you are looking to go to remote and distant places on the world you will be looking at 26” wheels with wide tires, steel-tubed, rugged bike. If you are looking to riding around on well paved roads you may find more enjoyment from a lighter weight touring bike. Get an idea for where you want to go.

Form: My bike is beautiful. To me, it looks pretty. This makes me happy. I like to look good while I’m riding, and my touring bike definitely helps me feel that way. So while this may be of less importance to some I feel that is important to me.

Bicycle manufacturers are producing more and more off the shelf touring bikes all the time. If possible, take a bunch out for a test ride. Find a shop that has a sample, and try it out for yourself. If they don’t carry the right size for you try to find a bike with similar geometry/dimensions. Take it for test ride before you order and get it set up the way you want it.

Here’s a few models that we’ve tried (or wish to try). There’s many many more out there:

  • Raleigh Sojourn
  • Surly Long Haul Trucker
  • Kona Sutra
  • Jamis Endura Sport Femme
  • Co-motion Pangaea

Your perfect bike is out there, waiting for you. For now, just get out there and ride!


Cycle Touring Expenses

When you’re thinking of starting a bicycle tour, one of the things to consider is how much money you want to spend. A bicycle tourist can end up spending as much or as little as he or she wants.  You don’t have to be rich to tour; here are some tips to keep your costs down.

Bicycles. Bicycles come in many shapes and sizes, as well as material type. A great touring bicycle doesn’t have to be brand new or expensive. Check the classifieds or Craigslist to find a new-to-you bicycle. Also, your local bike shop might have the perfect second-hand bicycle. Ask your friends: maybe someone has a bike you can borrow. The bottom line is you need a bicycle to get you down the road, you don’t need anything fancy to get started. A simple bike with rack mounts and plenty of gearing will get you from point A to B as well as a custom built Co-Motion.

Lodging. Camping equipment costs, such as for tents and sleeping bags, can add up. You might think it would be cheaper to forgo camping for staying cheap motels, but going that route (also known as credit-card touring) can get quite expensive. Typical campsites (in the US) range from $5 a night to $25 a night for bicyclists. Hotels in popular tourist destinations can be more costly than you might expect, and can be in the $100s/night during peak tourist season. Be ready to spend some money on a quality tent, since it will shelter you from Mother Nature, and can actually help save you money in the long run.

Gear. In addition to camping gear, there’s clothing, bicycle repair equipment, and technology. Stay tuned for more posts on these!

Food. Before you leave, think about how you plan to eat out there on the road. You’ll be eating. A lot. You’ll need to think of meals as well as snacks. When I’m out there, I like to snack at least once an hour, or every 15 miles or so. I also make sure to have a nourishing breakfast, a hearty lunch, and a filling dinner. Cereal grains for breakfast keep me full until that first morning snack. Snacks tend to be much more expensive at convenience stores. Try to buy them at grocery store if you can and always be on the lookout for sales to stretch every tour dollar further.

My go-to lunch is PB&J (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches). It’s difficult to find a more filling, inexpensive meal. Neither jelly nor breads needs to be refrigerated if eaten within a couple days. If you save money on lunch, you may be able to afford to try out that local eatery for dinner without breaking the bank. You should definitely sample the local cuisine, after all, bicycle touring is about experiencing the flavor of an area.

To sum up: The four main things you need to tour are a bicycle, lodging, gear, and food. Touring can be done on any budget. Remember that you don’t have to spend a lot of money to have a great time on your tour. Shop around and find what works for you.


 

The Perks of Ultralight Touring

Before our latest bicycle tour, I attended a class at a local sporting goods store. The class was all about the ultralight movement as it related to hiking and backpacking. While they didn’t address bicycle touring, the principles taught easily converted to touring. We applied some of those principles on our tour, and here’s what we found to be the best benefits of going ultralight.

Energy. As a bicycle becomes more and more loaded with gear, it becomes more and more challenging to ride. It simply takes more energy to pedal. As you reduce the weight of the bicycle and gear, you reduce the energy required for pushing the bike and increase the amount of energy you have left over at the end of the day. This means you can enjoy your time off the bike even more. For me, it meant I had the energy to explore the campground or the town after the day’s ride. I found my bicycle tour was much more enjoyable because of this.

Pace. Another advantage of ultralight touring is a faster average pace. This might seem like a small thing, but it meant less time overall riding. Which meant I had more time for other things (like sleeping or exploring). Plus, with a higher average speed, I felt like I could take more detours and pause more often without adding a lot of time to the day’s ride. This was key since we were riding while the days were at their shortest and we needed to maximize the daylight we had.

Less Stuff. When you completely convert to the ultralight mindset, this means your gear, all of your gear, becomes lighter and more compact. You reduce the number or size of your panniers. This in turn limits the amount of stuff you can bring, which brings your weight down even more. It self-perpetuates in a very cool way!

Hill climbs. My favorite thing about ultralight touring is how much easier it is to climb the tough hills with less weight. Sure, over time your legs become stronger and hills become less challenging. But starting off with less and lighter gear means those first hills of the trip aren’t your downfall.

Yes, there are some cons to going ultralight. Converting your gear can be costly, since “ultralight” is usually synonymous with “expensive.” But, changing out a few key pieces can get you going in the ultralight direction. Later, we’ll be discussing various ways to go ultralight.